Hot summer days of bodysurfing in the cold Atlantic Ocean waters off of Long Island are the stuff memories are made of growing up. Everyone helped to pack the family station wagon with beach necessities–blankets, towels, and a cooler full of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, cookies, and a jug of Kool-Aid.
Eyes widened with jubilation at the sight of big waves, on the order of 12-15 ft, usually towards late afternoon. The wind would pick up and the big waves came in sets. Riding these big waves is just a teeny tiny percentage of the big ones to explore in other parts of the world like Hawaii and certainly within reach for a beginner bodysurfer like me.
From beach blankets or concession stand, most body surfers would be mesmerized watching the afternoon waves rolling in. Soon after lunch, everyone just seemed to show up in the water again. Heads were bobbing in and out of the water like dolphins swimming out to the deep waters. Surfers were sitting high on their surfboards, cordoned off to the sides behind the orange flags.
Directly in front of the lifeguard stands, many of us would swim beyond the breaking waves. I would look over my shoulder to see a couple of the lifeguards standing up.
Sure it was hard to see and the whistle would blow when one of us had drifted out a little too far out of reach. One of the lifeguard’s arms extended and waved repeatedly, signaling to the farthest out swimmer to come in closer to the shore.
The fine line between going too far behind the waves and being too much in front of the waves coming in was tricky. Sometimes if you missed riding the swell, it was exhilarating to ride it up to the top and get a splash at the peak. I would turn my head to get an echoing sound, as the water created a hollow tube. Was I envious of the real tubes the surfers would ride.
The moment of the wave swell would come so quickly you had to be ready. Is it too big, I mean, would I get pounded? Many times I was beached by a big one, coughing up water and sand and impressionable sore ribs.
Split second decision was here: ride it in. Turn, start rapid swimming strokes to position in front of the wave. I could almost hear my heart beating. My head was slightly up, arms stretched behind, shoulders pushed forward, feet paddling wildly–I was riding the BIG ONE. Yippee! Such a powerful force of water rolled beneath me as I lay on top of it.
I slid to the waters edge like a dolphin. Gleeful sounds and shivers emanated from my entire body. I managed to get up without much embarrassment–my bathing suit was still on. I turned and made my way into the deep waters again. This feeling is not something you ever want to experience only once—it is something that lies within you forever.
That’s r&r.